_____Elsewhere in Food_____ • Roasted Fruits (The Washington Post, Jul 16, 2003) • Summer Puddings (The Washington Post, Jul 16, 2003) E-Mail This Article Printer-Friendly Version

By Lucie L. Snodgrass
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, July 16, 2003; Page F01

Anyone who has ever savored a tree-ripened, nectar-dripping peach will attest that there is hardly a fruit that compares in appearance, aroma or taste. The peach is also one of the most versatile of fruits, pairing beautifully and elegantly with a wide range of spices and ingredients -- sweet and savory alike. It is delicious eaten fresh, pureed and added to iced tea, baked, made into jam or jelly, canned -- even grilled. It freezes well. And, like one of summer's other delectable distractions, ice cream, the peach comes in endless varieties -- with about a tenth of the calories.

Starting in late June or early July, and continuing through early September, local peaches are in abundance in grocery stores, at farm stands and on the tree itself, just waiting to be picked. With new varieties like Blushing Star, White Lady and Flamin' Fury added to the hundreds of traditional varieties, there is a peach to tempt every palate. Even better, peaches also come in a dazzling array of white, yellow or pink flesh, each as delicious as the next.

We slice them on bowls of cereal, pack them into lunches, eat them out of hand at the beach, blend them into shakes and daiquiris and feature them as the star attraction in muffins, pies and cobblers.

Apart from the obvious, part of the peach's popularity lies in its wholesomeness. It's packed with nutrients and averages 40 calories for a medium-sized peach.

Peaches are generally divided into two designations, cling or freestone, which describe how easily the peach adheres to or separates from the pit. As a rule, cling peaches are most commonly grown for commercial canning purposes, while freestones are grown for fresh consumption. While they don't differ significantly in flavor, the relative difficulty of separating the stone from the fruit of cling peaches makes them less desirable for certain dishes, like Peach Melba, where presentation is important. Still, according to Gail McPherson, author of "Passion for Peaches Cookbook" (Quixote, 2000), admirers of true freestone peaches have to wait until at least late July, when the fruit has had sufficient heat and sunshine to cause it to pull away from the pit. Thus, home canning of peaches, for example, is done most easily in August.

In recent years, white peaches, once nearly impossible to find in supermarkets, have increased in availability and popularity in the United States. According to Charles Walker, managing director of the National Peach Council, white-fleshed peaches now make up about 20 percent of California's enormous peach harvest, a fourfold increase since 1994. White peaches, with their pinkish tinge and delicately perfumed aroma, offer a slightly more understated alternative to their bright yellow siblings.

Even with the greater availability of white peaches, however, many grocery stores offer only a few varieties at a time, usually without bothering to identify them. In part, according to the Peach Council's Walker, this is due to the short seasons for individual varieties.

"Peach varieties don't last as long [as apples]," he explains. "Apples are harvested in the fall, but can be stored for months. Peaches can only be stored for two weeks." It's not that stores aren't offering multiple varieties of peaches, he says, it's that there are so many, for brief periods of time, that it's too complicated for supermarkets to keep up.

In addition, farmers who grow peaches for large-scale retailers like national supermarket chains tend to grow big, perfectly blushed peaches. Taste, while important, is not accorded the same degree of importance as, say, transportability and appearance. Hence, out of the hundreds of peach varieties available, the majority of peaches grown in the East and sold in supermarkets are likely to be Red Havens, a tasty but not spectacular peach. California growers favor Elegant Lady or O'Henry varieties for much the same reason, according to Walker. Smaller, local growers, on the other hand, tend to place a greater premium on taste and smell than on appearance. That means that if you're looking for a highly perfumed, but somewhat delicate peach, or a peach with a wonderful flavor but modest appearance, like a Loring, you're not likely to find it at your local supermarket.

Regardless of color or variety, peaches are quickly and easily incorporated into many menus, from appetizers to main courses. A chilled peach soup with a sprig of peppermint is a no-cook, perfect starter on a hot summer day. Diced peaches, mixed with soy sauce, brown sugar and garlic, make an excellent marinade for meat dishes ranging from pork chops to chicken breasts to beef kebabs. Peach muffins or coffee cake are fast and delicious breakfast treats -- especially with homemade peach preserves. Even summer salads are made better with peach vinaigrette and the addition of sliced peaches. And for dessert, there's always a pie or a cobbler.

Or, better still, homemade peach ice cream.

Peachy Ice Cream

(Makes about 8 cups)

Creamy, smooth and perfectly peachy is perhaps the best way to describe this plain and simple peach ice cream.

From Gail McFarland's "Passion for Peaches Cookbook" (Quixote, 2000).

About 5 medium ripe peaches

Juice from 1/2 large lemon (about 11/2 tablespoons)

1 quart (4 cups) half-and-half

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup (half a 12-ounce can) evaporated milk

1 cup granulated sugar

Remove the skin and pits from the peaches.* In a food processor or blender, pulse the peaches until not quite smooth but still a bit chunky. (May need to work in batches.) You should have about 3 cups of chunky peach puree.

In a large bowl, combine the peach puree and lemon juice. Set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Add the half-and-half, vanilla, milk and sugar and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until chilled through, about 4 hours or up to overnight.

Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's directions. (May need to process in batches.) Transfer the ice cream to a chilled bowl or airtight container and freeze until "ripened," that is, slightly hardened, 1 to 2 hours, before serving.

*Note: To remove the skin of peaches, plunge them into boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to cold water. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, you can slip the skins off. The riper the peach, the less time it needs in the boiling water.

Per 1/2-cup serving: 155 calories, 3 gm protein, 19 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 26 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 37 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Emory Knoll Farm Peach Pie

(Makes 1 pie or 8 servings)

Less sweet and more spicy than most peach pies, this one, named for our Maryland farm, puts to good use those still-firm peaches that may not ripen quite to perfection.

1 cup sugar, preferably turbinado or raw sugar

2 tablespoons flour, plus additional for the work surface

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

Pinch salt

10 ripe but firm, medium yellow and white peaches, peeled and sliced

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Two 10-inch deep-dish pie crusts

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil.

In a bowl, combine the sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and salt.

Place the peaches in a large bowl, add the vanilla and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle with the sugar mixture and toss gently to combine. Set aside.

Have ready a 10-inch, deep-dish pie plate lined with crust. Spoon the filling over the crust.

Carefully drape the second crust on top of the filled pie. Gently press the dough over the top and sides of the filling so that it fits smoothly. Using a sharp knife, trim any dough that hangs over the edge of the pie pan, being sure to leave the dough that covers the rim of the pan. Crimp the edges of the pie crusts together. Using a thin sharp knife or the tines of a fork, cut several slits into the top of the crust to allow the release of steam. Place the pie on the baking sheet.

Bake the pie for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake for 40 minutes. Allow the pie to cool slightly before slicing and serving.

Per serving: 394 calories, 4 gm protein, 61 gm carbohydrates, 16 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 4 gm saturated fat, 279 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber

Peach Daiquiri

(2 servings)

The amount of sugar the drink requires depends on the ripeness of the fruit. Dark rum -- often smoother and sometimes spicier than white -- is a fine alternative to white Puerto Rican rum

Recipe courtesy of the National Peach Council.

1 medium very ripe peach

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

3 ounces (6 tablespoons) rum, white Puerto Rican, light or dark

1 cup cracked ice

In a blender, combine all of the ingredients until smooth. (You may wish to start with just 1 teaspoon of the sugar and 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, then taste and adjust the ingredients accordingly.) Serve immediately in chilled glasses.

Per serving: 129 calories, trace protein, 9 gm carbohydrates, trace fat, 0 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 1 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Emory Knoll Farm Spiced Peaches

(Makes about 4 cups)

These mildly spiced, slightly pickled peaches are a combination of sweet, tart and acerbic.

31/2 pounds white, yellow or mixed peaches

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon whole cloves

3 cardamom pods

Two 3-inch cinnamon sticks

1 vanilla bean

2 cups white wine vinegar

3 cups granulated sugar

Have ready several sterilized, wide-mouth quart jars.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Working in batches, carefully drop the peaches into the boiling water and blanch for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the peaches to ice water.

When cool enough to handle, peel, halve and pit the peaches.

Meanwhile, place the peppercorns, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and vanilla in a large piece of cheesecloth, twist the ends to form a pouch and tie it shut.

In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the vinegar to a boil. Add the sugar and simmer gently, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Carefully add the peaches and the pouch of spices; simmer gently for 5 minutes.

Remove and discard the spice pouch. Using a slotted spoon, spoon the peaches into sterilized, wide-mouth quart jars. Then pour the syrup over the peaches, filling the jars to within 1/2 inch of the top. Seal the jars according to manufacturer's directions. Store in a cool, dark place for 2 months before using.

Per 1/2-cup serving: 384 calories, 1 gm protein, 94 gm carbohydrates, trace fat, 0 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 5 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber

Lucie Lehmann Snodgrass is a writer who left Washington for a farm in Street, Md.